AMALFI AND POSITANO

In the center of Amalfi and on the waterfront you will find this statue. There was no name or plaque on the statue so I really do not know who it is.  Amalfi somehow escaped the destruction that went on around the region during the middle ages.  For example, the destruction of Pompeii.  It originally was a Roman settlement under the Douchy of Naples but founded by Greek traders in the 800's AD.  In the 12th century it was invaded by the Normans and became part of the Kingdom of Sicily.  However, by the mid 1600 it lost a third of its population because of the plague.  Since then, and because of its location by the sea, it has become a thriving part of Italy.  This occurred mostly because of trade with the rest of Southern Italy.  Today it is a major tourist destination area.

 Our drive to the Amalfi coast from IL MOLINO in Cortona was quite interesting once we got off the Autostrada. We exited just south of Naples in a town Angri and, believe me, it was angry.  From there we drove on a road about the width of a sidewalk back home for several miles up the mountain and then back down the other side.  It wasn't bad until you met a large over 40 passenger tour bus coming the other way.  There are no shoulders on this road so it becomes a bit interesting.  Here are some pictures of the drive.  We only took three because I was busy with both white knuckled hands on the wheel and Brenda was busy with both hands on rosary beads praying that we make it to the other end of the road.  The good news is that we made it, but the bad news is that a change of garments was necessary.  Just kidding.  It really wasn't that bad and, believe it or not, I drove back the same way.

Another picture of the on the way to Amalfi.  Below you see the city of Naples.  I am not sure of you can see the Mediterranean Sea in the background because it was hazy that day.  Or maybe it was pollution.  

 Another view.  We came from where you see those buildings in the center of the picture.  I had a rented car.  I had asked for a small one because I knew the roads would be narrow but, they thought they were doing me a favor and gave me a larger vehicle.  It was an Opel (haven't seen one of those in the US in a long time) about the size of a Ford Escape.  Maybe a bit smaller.  It was a nice SUV, very quiet and solid, however, I think the drivers seat was made of oak.

Once in Amalfi, we stayed in a place called Villa Rosinella.  It was right at the edge of the road and high on a hill.  They told us there was only thirteen steps to get inside.  What they neglected to mention is that the thirteen steps was only to the kitchen which was on the first level.  Thirteen more steps up was the villa with another kitchen (no sink, that was downstairs or you use the bathroom sink) a bedroom and a large bathroom.  Giuseppe was a great host and had wine, prosecco and a host of snacks waiting for us.  The second day his son, Gianfranco.  delivered some tasty Mozzarella di  Bufalo.  It was delicious and, of course, we ate it all.   The picture above and to the right was taken from our patio just before sunset.  The villa was great and in an excellent location.  I did a review on TripAdvisor.  You can check it out and see more pictures of the inside.

Here is a view of the street.  This section had a sidewalk.  Most sections do not.  This is just around the corner from Villa Rosinella

Sunrise from the Patio

More sunrise

Sunrise again

View from our Bedroom

View of Amalfi from patio at night

We could walk to town from our villa.  It was all down hill but coming back you definitely had to take a cab or a bus.  Here is a picture of walking down.  Notice no sidewalks. 

If you can't go over the mountain just go thru it.  This is still on the way down. There was a sidewalk on the left side of this tunnel.  The cars and buses come thru there at what seems like 100MPH but I am sure they are only doing 90.

Amalfi Waterfront

Half way down there was a set of stairs that you can take as a short cut.  We did take them and you end up down by the waterfront.  You come out right near that parking sign for a hotel.  Parking, by the way , is almost impossible in
Amalfi.  If you find a place to park leave your car there and walk or take a bus or cab.  That's what we did.

Along the waterfront.  Restaurant on right.

Yep, believe it or not but they do have full sized garbage trucks for small sized streets.  Contrary to popular belief these two trucks did manage to pass each other.  The drivers were each yelling out the window at each other and hands and arms were moving a mile a minute.  No one got out of the truck, and no punches were thrown.

Another view

Just about every town and city in Italy has its Duomo.  Here is the one in Amalfi.  This is S. Andrea, I believe the patron saint of Amalfi.  It always seems that all the Duomo's have a million stairs to climb this being no exception.  I did climb them and go inside while they were having mass.  It is beautiful inside and quite ornate(more pictures below).  Of course, the mass was in Italian.  It reminded me of going to church as a child in Waterbury, Connecticut to Our Lady of Lourdes on South Main Street.  The mass there was always in Latin and Italian.  Just like home, however, this church was more than half empty.

Main square with church in background

Leaving Mass

Priest saying Mass. This is as close as I was able to get.

Square from top of church stairs.  Middle of picture in yellow sitting under canopy is Brenda.

Amalfi waterfront

Yep, the cruise industry has found Amalfi

Just a short boat ride from Amalfi is Positano.  It is much smaller than Amalfi but also right on the water.  Positano was part of the Amalfi Republic in the sixteenth and seventeenth century.   By the mid nineteenth century it fell on hard times and most of its people emigrated. Mostly to America.
It became popular again when John Steinbeck published an essay on Positano in Harper's Bazaar in May of 1953."Positano bites deep", Steinbeck wrote. "It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone."

Mick Jagger and Keith Richards from The Rolling Stones wrote the song "Midnight Rambler" in the cafes of Positano while on vacation.  I got this information on line so I hope it's true.  On the right is another picture of Positano from the boat that took us there.

In and around Positano from the water

Picture of Positano from the water

Central area of Positano and the waterfront

Nope the Shriner's were not in Positano the day we were there.  There was, however, a car show.  If you want to drive around, this car just might be to large.  The one behind it was a more expensive car.  These cars were all made by Fiat.  It was a Fiat 500 club show.  I drive a Fiat when I am here in Italy and actually it is not a bad car.  I really enjoy driving it, except when the battery goes dead.  Thank God Pino left me a back up car or we would have never made it to pick up our rental for the trip to Amalfi.  That one is a Toyota Yaris.  No comment. 

Stay tuned for more to come.  Next will be our trip to Sorrento.